Hell’s market

In the shadows of the market, I feel the sacredness of life and death entwined, each heartbeat echoing the vibrant pulse of humanity

by Fabio Lovati
Khlong Toei Market | ©Fabio Lovati, 2022

You are welcome but close your eyes.. they won't help you to understand

Sunthonkosa Road, Khlong Toei, Bangkok

This post is also available in: Italiano

Khlong Toei Market | ©Fabio Lovati, 2022
Khlong Toei Market | ©Fabio Lovati, 2022

This is hell!
I want to stay here for one more minute, and one more

We are in Bangkok and, constantly searching for authenticity, we visit the Khlong Toei district, home to the city’s largest fresh market. A jumble of stalls and pavilions makes up a dense network of paths where carts and motorcyclists make their way through the crowded lanes. Open round the clock, traders work non-stop, satiating the mouths of more than 10,000,000 people.

Whatever you eat in Bangkok, know that it comes from here,” Gabriel tells me as we arrive in front of the endless entrances of this labyrinth.
So we decide to part ways, letting our senses guide us and our curiosity to taste, if only for a few hours, the visceral love of traditional Asian food.
Carried along by a current of bodies, a darker part of the marketplace, where shadows carry carcasses and shreds of meat, becomes apparent to my eyes.

I step into a place where light has no place. Fading, it is coloured red, with shreds of intestines dripping from the tables as crawling beasts try to feed. My feet move forward in the dark while the air I breathe combines death and life.

The butchers snicker merrily while I, an unwitting farang*, am caressed by the horrid, in which guilty, I find relish in it and feel that the rawness of this place is pregnant with sacredness.
I try to find a meaning to it all, perhaps there is not yet, but I wait for it in a ticking time marked by the chiming of machetes.
It will be true that every sacrifice corresponds to the sign of a life, past, future, that remains difficult to understand, but I am willing to accept it if it means letting go of all this humanity.

*Farangtermine persiano utilizzato in Thailandia per indicare genericamente l’uomo europeo bianco

Khlong Toei Market | ©Fabio Lovati, 2022
Khlong Toei Market | ©Fabio Lovati, 2022
Text and Photos: Fabio Lovati 
Photo Edit: Gabriele Orlini 
Original text in Italian - In house translation
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