The Kutch desert and the Salt tradition

For generations, the Agariya, a semi-nomadic community in Gujarat, India, have cultivated salt, but today a government ordinance is risking their future

by Roberto Gregori
A picker attends the first day of harvesting the salt he produces - ©Roberto Gregori

There must be something strangely sacred about salt
We find it in our tears and the sea

Khalil Gibran

Gujarat, India

This post is also available in: Italiano

After the monsoon season ends, around September or October, the Agariya people move from their villages on the edge of the Little Rann of Kutch desert to the more remote areas. The Agariya are a semi-nomadic community that has lived in Gujarat, northwest India, for hundreds of years. They make their living by producing salt. During this move, the Agariya bring everything they need to live in the desert for 8 months. This is when they “farm salt,” involving about 40,000 people. Their production accounts for 76% of all the salt produced in India.

Long ago, the Little Rann of Kutch was a shallow bay of the Arabian Sea. Over time, the earth shifted, and the seabed rose. This eventually turned the bay into a salt lake and a desert. As evidence of its origins, you can still find saltwater deep underground with a salt level 4 to 6 times higher than the seas.

Agariya
The tanker truck sent by the government drives away after supplying homes with drinking water – ©Roberto Gregori
Agariya
Workers live with their families in the salt fields – ©Roberto Gregori

Agariya’s hard work in salt production

Once they arrive at the salt farming areas, the Agariya build temporary homes with wooden frames covered in jute and plastic sheets. After this, the salt production begins. First, they dig a well by hand, several meters deep, until they reach the underground salt water. This water is pumped to the surface through narrow channels, flowing into huge interconnected pools. Banks of pressed mud surround the pools, also made entirely by hand. As the water moves from one pool to another, it slowly evaporates under the scorching desert sun. Summer temperatures can reach 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit)! This is what allows the salt crystals to form. The Agariya works with these crystals daily, using large wooden rakes to clump them together. The bigger the crystals, the more they’re worth when sold.

The Agariya’s life is very tough. Besides working in extremely high temperatures, constant contact with the salt causes skin problems, especially on their legs and feet. They often work barefoot, standing in the water without any protection. The sun reflecting off the white salt also causes serious eye problems. The price they get paid for their salt is very low. On average, they earn about 2 to 4 US dollars per ton, while refined salt is worth around 240 dollars.

Until a few years ago, most of Agariya’s earnings went towards the cost of diesel fuel to run the water pumps. The government and some non-profit organizations recently created funding plans to help them buy electric pumps and solar panels. This allows them to use the diesel pumps only at night, significantly increasing their profit margin and reducing pollution.

Agariya
Groundwater extraction systems require frequent maintenance – ©Roberto Gregori
Agariya
Bags of salt waiting to be loaded onto the truck – ©Roberto Gregori

An Uncertain Future

Today, the Agariya face a new problem. On February 21, 2023, the government of Gujarat issued an order denying land use rights to anyone who cannot prove they own the land. This is impossible for many Agariya, as they have been farming salt without strict regulations for much longer than 1973. That’s the year the Little Rann of Kutch was declared a protected area, which led to restrictions on access and activities.

If some of the Agariya community are denied the right to use these lands, they will lose their only source of income. This could devastate the community, which is very close-knit and dedicated solely to salt farming.

Agariya
Salt raking takes place in the cooler hours of the day – ©Roberto Gregori
Text and Photos: Roberto Gregori 
Original text in Italian - In house translation

© Portfolio - The Kutch desert and the Salt tradition

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